Getting to know Bordeaux, the city of wine!
During the majority of 2022, as I already said in previous posts, I didn’t get to take days off from work. But I really didn’t want to let this stop me from traveling, so I decided to make the most out of my weekends. This being said, I had to go on a mission to find the places that were not far from where I live so that I would not lose much time getting there and could see most of it during the weekend. One of these destinations was Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is a nice place to spend two or three days. I wouldn’t say you would need more days there because it is a quite small city, but you would find some nice things to do on a weekend and you can easily walk around on foot or using public transport. Keep reading to find the things you can do in Bordeaux in two days!
Day 1 - Saturday
Porte Cailhau
Porte Cailhau is a 23 meters high defensive gate that you can visit for 5€ or for free on the first Sunday of every month. On top of it, you have some of the greatest views of the river but beware that the access to the top of the tower is not the easiest as there are quite some stairs and the staircase is very narrow.
We really liked our visit there. It didn’t take long but it was very rich, telling you everything about the tower’s history.
Le Miroir D’Eau + Place de la Bourse
Le miroir d’eau is one of the spots that attract the most tourists. It is a huge slab of granite built less than 20 years ago. The special thing about this slab of stone is the water spectacle that is constantly going on: it gets filled with 2 cm of water that slowly disappears just to be filled back. Whether you visit during the day or in the morning, you will find people enjoying this magical attraction (children are probably the biggest fans).
If you ever visit, you will see how incredible this little pool is when it reflects the sky, the Place de la Bourse, and all its surroundings.
On one side of it, you will find the Garonne, but on the other, you will find the ancient façades from the 18th century: Place de la Bourse adorned by the Three Graces fountain.
National Opera & Intercontinental Hotel
As soon as you find yourself in the middle of the street between the Opera and the hotel, you won’t even know where to look first. Both the opera and the hotel have a tremendously beautiful façade!
The Intercontinental Bordeaux - Le Grand Hotel is a luxurious five-star hotel located in the heart of Bordeaux. The hotel was originally a grand palace, adorning the city since 1776 and the incredible neoclassical façade and lavish interior decor have been very well preserved over the centuries. Not much more to say about it, it’s a hotel and you can see photos of everything here. If you can stay there, I believe it might be a really great stay…but I just saw from the outside 😅
The National Opera of Bordeaux, also known as the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, is a stunning 18th-century opera house located in the heart of Bordeaux, France, right across the street from the Intercontinental. Built in 1780, the opera house boasts a neoclassical architectural style, adorned with ornate carvings and sculptures on the outside that make a feast for the eye. The interior is equally impressive! If you’re keen on watching something there, you can find a wide range of performances, from classic operas and ballets to contemporary plays and concerts. Keep an eye out for their website and beware that it is advised to buy tickets in advance. It is open Monday to Saturday from 12:30 PM to 6:30 PM (on performance days until the beginning of the show) and it is very easy to get there, the tram stops right in front of it. You can either use public transport (tram lines B and C, bus lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 26, and 29) or you can drive there and park nearby or in the underground park at Place des Quinconces.
Notre-Dame de Bordeaux Cathedral
Notre-Dame de Bordeaux is a magnificent Gothic cathedral, built between the 11th and 14th centuries, it boasts a stunning façade adorned with intricate stone carvings and an equally beautiful interior, with soaring vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, and a magnificent organ dating back to the 18th century. This cathedral is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is very well known for its ornate altar, where you can see a stunning marble depiction of the crucifixion. Visitors can also admire the cathedral's impressive collection of religious artifacts, including tapestries, sculptures, and paintings. Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply seeking a peaceful moment of reflection, this is a must-see in the city!
If you want to visit the cathedral, you can do it for free every day from 7h30 am to 7h30 pm (except during the religious services). But, if you want a more complete visit, you can get a guided tour either in English or French, but I advise that you book online in advance. If you’re like me, you’ll want to take photos inside, and that’s fine. Just make sure your flash is turned off and that you don’t use a tripod, they’re not allowed.
Place de Quinconces
Place de Quinconces is a beautiful and spacious public square, one of the largest in Europe, measuring over 12 hectares, and is named after the trees that are planted in a distinctive quincunx pattern. Here you will find several impressive monuments, including the Girondins Monument, which commemorates the victims of the French Revolution, and the imposing statue of Montesquieu, a famous philosopher and writer from Bordeaux. Place de Quinconces is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, and it hosts several events throughout the year, including a popular Christmas market. The square is easily accessible by public transportation, with several tram and bus stops nearby. If you’re driving there, you have the underground park that I already mentioned
Basilique Saint-Seurin
Basilique Saint-Seurin is a beautiful Romanesque church located in the historic Saint-Seurin neighborhood of Bordeaux. This church was built in the 11th century and is renowned for its architecture and rich history. Whenever there, you can admire the intricate carvings on the church's exterior, the beautiful frescoes and the stained glass windows inside, and one of the highlights of the church, which is its crypt that dates back to the 6th century and contains the remains of several saints and martyrs. Basilique Saint-Seurin is a popular destination for history and architecture enthusiasts, and guided tours are available in English and French. The church is open daily, except during religious services, and admission is free. However, you can get a guided tour in either English or French, just like in the Notre Dame Cathedral. Also like Notre Dame, you cannot take pictures with flash inside.
I especially liked the garden beside the church, where you could see people just chilling, reading, walking their dogs, and even a few artists selling their incredible paintings.
Gambetta Tram Station + Porte Dijeaux
Gambetta Tram Station is a major public transportation hub located in the very center of Bordeaux. At this station you will find several tram lines, including the A, B, and C lines, making it a convenient connection point when exploring the city. The station is named after Place Gambetta, a nearby public square that is home to several impressive buildings, including the Grand Theatre and the Palais Rohan. The station is surrounded by several restaurants, cafes, and shops, so take some time to grab a quick bite or drink something.
From Gambetta Tram Station, you just need to walk about 2 minutes and you will find Porte Dijeaux, a historic city gate from the 18th century, which is very popular among history and architecture enthusiasts. Take a few minutes to appreciate the intricate carvings and stonework on the gate, including the beautiful Corinthian columns and the ornate pediment. Admission to the gate is free, and visitors are welcome to explore the gate and the surrounding area.
Bordeaux Museum of Fine Arts
The Bordeaux Museum of Fine Arts is a must-visit attraction for art lovers visiting the city and I have to say that it was one of my favorite places in Bordeaux (I love a good art museum any time 😉). The museum is home to an impressive collection of over 12,000 artworks, spanning from ancient times to the contemporary era. Their collection includes works by some of the most famous artists in history, such as Rubens, Renoir, and Monet and the museum's highlights include its extensive collection of 18th-century French paintings, which is considered to be one of the best in the entire world. If you visit, you will not only find paintings, but you will also be able to admire sculptures, drawings, and decorative arts. The museum is divided into two buildings: one with older pieces and the other with more recent works. Your ticket covers both. One tip: you will find lockers for your stuff on the first one, where you buy the tickets. Use them and leave things there until the end of your visit, including while you’re on the second building because that second one doesn’t have any lockers and you will have to carry your things. If you’re like me, you hate walking around museums with more than my phone in hand.
For some more practical information, once again, you can take guided tours of the museum in French and English, but also in Spanish. If you prefer to go on your own, you may explore the collection using the museum's audio guide or with no guide at all. The museum is closed on Mondays and public holidays, but is open every other day of the week, with extended hours on Wednesday evenings. Admission fees vary depending on the season and the type of ticket, with reduced rates available for students and senior citizens, you can find all about it here.
Chateau du Hâ
Chateau du Hâ is a 16th-century castle located on the outskirts of Bordeaux that is considered by many as one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in the region. The castle has a rich history and has been used for various purposes throughout the centuries, including as a military fortification and a prison. Nowadays, the castle serves as the headquarters of the Bordeaux Urban Community and is unfortunately not open to the public. However, you can still see it from the outside which is already pretty impressive. Next to it, there is a park that is a popular destination for picnics and outdoor activities and is home to several walking paths and even a small lake. Even though it is on the outskirts of the city, Chateau du Hâ is easily accessible by car or public transportation, with several bus and tram stops nearby. There are guided tours of the castle's exterior available, which are a great way of learning more about its fascinating history. Overall, Chateau du Hâ is a beautiful and historic site that is worth a visit for anyone interested in architecture and history but be mindful that you can only see it from the outside.
Bordeaux Cathedral (St. Andrew)
Bordeaux Cathedral, also known as St. Andrew's Cathedral, is a beautiful and historic catholic building located in the heart of Bordeaux. It was built between the 12th and 16th centuries and is considered to be one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the region and I have to say that I was very impressed by it, it is very imponent on the outside and beautiful on the inside. The entrance of the cathedral is one of its most famous parts and is known as the "Gates of Paradise". When inside, you admire several can admire important relics, including the tomb of Saint Seurin and the Holy Rood, a piece of wood believed to be a fragment of the True Cross, but what impressed me the most were the stained glass windows. There’s something about colored glass that I just find hypnotizing.
The cathedral is open to the public for guided tours, and admission is free, but beware that it may be closed for certain events and services, so it's best to check the schedule in advance. Overall, in my opinion, you cannot visit Bordeaux without visiting this cathedral.
Pey Berland Tower
Right next to St. Andrew’s, you will find the Pey Berland Tower, a beautiful and historic tower. Built in the 15th century, it was named after Pey Berland, the Archbishop of Bordeaux who commissioned its construction. You can climb the tower's narrow spiral staircase to reach the top, where you will be rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the city.
You can visit the tower on a guided tour or by yourself. The price of the tickets per adult is 6€ but there are free tickets or lower fares for some specific cases, so check the website to know how much they will cost you when you visit. Beware that the tower is unfortunately not accessible for people with limited mobility.
Rue des Palanques
Located in the heart of the historic district of Bordeaux, Rue des Palanques is a charming and picturesque street known for its beautiful architecture, quaint shops, and cafes. It is a pedestrian-only street, which makes it perfect for a stroll around. It is lined with traditional French buildings, many of which date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, and are very well-preserved.
Take some time to just walk around and absorb the vibe of the street.
Rue Sainte Catherine + Librairie La Nuit des Rois
In general, make sure you save some time to just walking around the streets of the city, you will find little corners, some street art, and very picturesque gardens. However, the one I found the most interesting was definitely Librairie La Nuit des Rois, a small little bookshop with new and old books of all types and sizes.
This specific street, Rue Sainte Catherine, is a bustling shopping street with vibrant energy, a wide variety of shops and boutiques, and historic architecture. It is actually one of the longest shopping streets in Europe, stretching over 1.2 kilometers from Place de la Victoire to Place de la Comédie. While you stroll around, you will find some historic landmarks, including the Église Sainte-Croix and the Grosse Cloche.
Another place you will find (probably my favorite) is Librairie La Nuit des Rois, a charming independent bookstore with a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, friendly staff, and a wide selection of books in both French and English. You will find all sorts of books there: photography books, guides, culinary books, comic books, novels, classic literature, poetry, fiction, non-fiction, and even children’s books….all you can think of.
The bookstore also hosts regular events, including book signings, author readings, and book clubs and the staff is really knowledgeable and passionate about literature, always happy to provide recommendations or help visitors find the perfect book. Definitely, Librairie La Nuit des Rois is a must-visit destination for book lovers and anyone interested in exploring the vibrant literary culture of Bordeaux or even just seeing the very picturesque store.
Rue du Loup
Rue du Loup is one more charming street located in the historic district of Bordeaux. The street is home to several popular restaurants and cafes, where you can enjoy delicious French cuisine and local specialties. The street is also a great destination for shopping and getting yourself some souvenirs.
Basilique Saint-Michel
This is a historic Gothic church with beautiful stained-glass windows and a rich history. It was built between the 14th and 16th centuries and dedicated to the Archangel Michael, the patron saint of Bordeaux. Among the amazing collection of stained glass windows, there is an especially amazing one depicting the life of Saint Michael. If you climb to the top of the bell tower, you will get panoramic views of the city.
Porte D’Aquitane
Another “gate” that you will find in Bordeaux is Porte d'Aquitaine, also known as the "Gate of Aquitaine", a historic landmark. It is a well-preserved medieval gate that dates back to the 14th century and was once a part of the city's fortifications. The gate features a pointed arch and is made of limestone, with two massive cylindrical towers on either side. You can explore the gate and its surroundings, and admire the beautiful architecture and historical significance of this landmark.
This was our last stop of the day and, as you can see, this was a very busy day. If you have an extra day in the city, I would divide this into two. I just saw these many things because I really didn’t have any more days in the city than the weekend.
Day 2 - Sunday stroll
Grosse Cloche
Grosse cloche is a bell tower in the middle of the city. The huge bell cast in 1775 still rings 6 times every year for major events important for the city and also every first Sunday of every month. If you happen to be there in the first month and you want to see it, be sure to be near the tower at noon.
You can visit this defensive tower and see the old dungeons where they imprisoned people who did not obey the rules at the time.
Right next to Grosse Cloche, you will find a small street that will lead you to a bar that has amazing street art. Just a tip that I think may be worth it 😉
Pont de Pierre
Pont de Pierre is a bridge ordered by Napoleon that connects both sides of the river Garonne. It was a game changer at the time because, before its inauguration in 1822, the river had to be crossed by boat, and the bridge would allow a much easier crossing (you can still cross by boat if you want). Nowadays, it is just one of the many bridges that cross the Garonne but it is definitely one of the most beautiful and full of meaning.
Let’s take a look at the hidden meanings and fun facts about this bridge:
It has 17 spans, the same number of letters in the name Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the bridge;
From its opening until August 1861, everyone who crossed the bridge had to pay a toll;
The bridge’s movements are monitored through sensors inside the pillars to get insights on its inclination, displacement, and rotation.
There are two low-ceiling tunnels inside the bridge, which means it is hollow. These tunnels are used to carry water lines and electric and telecommunications cables. These tunnels are only used by technicians.
It is closed to car traffic since July 2018 and it’s currently crossed by the tram line and the pedestrians
Lastly, its pillars are scrutinized by the people of Bordeaux to check the level of the tide.
Darwin Eco-systéme
This was probably my favorite place on the whole trip: Darwin Eco-systéme! It looked a bit like it was something out of this world, a bit like one of those post-apocalyptic places with sustainability in mind.
This rehabilitation project turned an abandoned wasteland into an alternative and innovative place that promised to shake the traditional ways of society nowadays. You will not only find stores and restaurants there, but you may also find some activities (depending on when you visit), street art, and funny structures. It is open every day and there is no entry fee. To get there, you can use public transport or you can walk there, but I warn you that it is quite a walk. Find more about the place here.
La cité du vin
Unfortunately, we didn’t actually get in the cité du Vin because we got a bit lost in time and then there was not enough time for us to visit, so we decided to see it from the outside before heading back.
The building itself is a work of art. Since the place is all about wine, it only made sense that the building was inspired by the grape nectar. In the words of XTU Architects, responsible for this project, “this building does not resemble any recognizable shape because it is an evocation of the soul of wine between the river and the city” and it is supposed to evoke “perpetual movement".
Even though the building is quite stunning, the city of wine is not just about that. The place serves as an event space and, obviously, as the wine museum of the city of Bordeaux.
You can buy tickets in place or online on their website. There are tickets for the exhibitions, the wine tasting, and for specific events occurring there at a given time. For the wine tasting and workshops, you can get tickets from 18€ up to 25€, depending on which workshop you choose. For the permanent exhibition, you can choose from 2 types of tickets: dated tickets and open tickets (valid for 1 year). The dated one will cost you 22€ while the open one is a bit more expensive at 27€.
I didn’t enter the building but I honestly wish I did. Now I look at pictures of its interior and I’m in awe 🙈
Jardin Publique
The public garden, created in 1764 by Jacques-Anges Gabriel, is located in the heart of Bordeaux and it’s considered to be the lungs of the city. There you will find vast lawns, loads of trees and sculptures, and even an island in the middle of the water that can be accessed by two metallic bridges.
If you have the chance, you should definitely visit and spend some time in this beautiful garden.
Sleeping in Bordeaux
After the research that I did when preparing for the trip, I decided to go for an apartment because it was cheaper and it also allowed us to cook there, so we didn’t need to spend money in restaurants. This was the place I found,
As you can see, even though Bordeaux is not a huge city, you can definitely stay busy for 2 or 3 days 😉
Have you ever thought of visiting Bordeaux? Let me know in the comments.
XOXO,
Barbara
